How to Remove Pilling From Cashmere (Without Damaging It)

Every cashmere garment pills a little. Those small bobbles are short, loose fibres working to the surface where the fabric rubs — under the arms, at the cuffs, wherever a bag strap sits. It is normal fibre behaviour, not a fault. To remove pilling from cashmere safely, lay the piece flat and lift the pills away with a dedicated cashmere comb, drawing it gently in one direction rather than scrubbing back and forth. A fabric shaver can help on denser knits, but the rule is always a light touch: you are lifting the bobbles off, not shaving the surface down. Below is the comb technique, the tools to avoid, and how to slow pilling for the wears to come.

Why cashmere pills — and why it isn't a defect

Cashmere is spun from short, exceptionally fine fibres. Any time the surface meets friction, a few fibre ends loosen and tangle into the little balls we call pills. This happens most in the first few wears, then slows markedly. It is the same behaviour you see in every soft, natural fibre — a sign the yarn is soft, not that it is cheap.

Quality does change how a garment pills, though. Longer-staple, finer cashmere — like Grade-A fibre of around 16 microns, hand-combed from Chyangra goats — is held more securely in the knit, so it pills less, and the pills it forms are softer. No cashmere is pilling-proof; a well-made piece simply pills less and recovers faster with a quick comb.

How to remove pills with a cashmere comb (step by step)

A cashmere comb — a fine-toothed tool made for the job — is the gentlest, most controllable way to tidy a knit, shearing the bobbles off without touching the fabric beneath. Here is the method:

1. Lay the garment flat on a clean, hard surface — a table, not your lap. A taut, even surface keeps you from catching the weave.
2. Smooth out any wrinkles so the knit lies flat and unstretched. Never comb fabric that is bunched or pulled tight.
3. Hold the comb almost flat and draw it gently in one direction — usually downward, following the grain of the knit.
4. Work in short, light strokes over one small area at a time. Let the weight of the comb do the work; pressing hard is what nicks the fabric.
5. Brush the lifted pills away as you go — cuffs, underarms and sides usually need the most attention.

Take your time — five unhurried minutes on a flat jumper beats a rushed pass with it held in the air.

Fabric shavers and sweater stones — handle with care

An electric fabric shaver is quicker on heavier, denser knits, but less forgiving than a comb. Keep the fabric flat and taut, hold the shaver level, and move slowly without pressing. Choose a fine screen guard, empty it often, and test a hidden area — an inside hem — before working anywhere visible.

Sweater stones (blocks of pumice-like foam) can also lift pills, but they are the bluntest option and shed grit as they go — on a fine knit we reach for the comb first. Whichever you use, stop the moment the surface looks clean rather than chasing every last bobble; over-working one spot is what thins the fabric.

What not to use on cashmere

The wrong tool turns a cosmetic bobble into a real hole. Keep these away from your knitwear:

• Razors dragged dry across the fabric. They catch threads and slice the knit as easily as the pills.
• Scissors to snip pills freehand. One slip cuts a working yarn, and cashmere unravels quickly from a cut.
• Pulling pills off by hand. Tugging a bobble can drag a whole loop of yarn out with it. If you catch a snag, ease it back into the knit or snip only the loose end — never pull.
• Sticky tape, aggressive lint rollers or wire brushes. They lift fibres you wanted to keep and abrade the surface.

How to reduce future pilling (you can slow it, not stop it)

You cannot stop pilling entirely — friction is friction — but a few habits keep it to a minimum.

• Rest it between wears. Give a piece a day or two off so the fibres relax and recover their shape. Back-to-back days concentrate friction and speed up pilling.
• Wash it gently, and do wash it. Careful washing removes many of the loose surface fibres that would otherwise pill — our guide to washing a cashmere sweater covers the method that keeps the fibre soft.
• Reduce the friction points. A cross-body bag strap, a rough coat lining or a seatbelt over the same spot will create pills there. Vary how you carry things.
• Store it folded and clean. Fold rather than hang — the same gentle-keeping principles from our complete pashmina care guide apply to every cashmere piece.

When pilling is telling you something about quality

A little soft pilling that lifts away easily and slows after the first few wears is exactly what good cashmere does. Persistent, hard, dense bobbles are a different story. If a garment keeps producing tight, wiry pills that never ease off, it often points to shorter, lower-grade fibre or an undisclosed blend — fibre that simply isn't held securely enough in the knit.

If you are unsure what you are working with, our guide on how to tell if cashmere is real walks through the checks that separate fine cashmere from imitations. There is also a quiet advantage to undyed cashmere: by skipping the harsh bleaching and dyeing steps, the fibre keeps more of its natural oils and stays soft wear after wear.

Frequently asked questions

Does all cashmere pill?

Yes. Every cashmere garment pills to some degree, because pilling is simply short fibres surfacing where the fabric rubs. It is normal fibre behaviour, not a defect. Finer, longer-staple cashmere pills less and more softly, and it slows after the first few wears.

Is it safe to use a fabric shaver on cashmere?

Yes, if you are gentle. Keep the fabric flat and taut, hold the shaver level, move slowly without pressing, and use a fine screen guard. Test a hidden area first. For fine knits a comb gives more control.

How often should I de-pill my cashmere?

Only as needed — usually a light pass now and then, most often in the early weeks with a new piece. Once the loose surface fibres have shed, an occasional comb is all it takes.

Will removing pills wear my jumper out?

Not if you use the right tool with a light touch. A cashmere comb lifts the bobbles off without touching the fabric beneath. Damage comes from pressing hard, over-working one spot, or reaching for razors and scissors. And gentle washing actually reduces pilling, by rinsing away loose surface fibres before they bobble.

Keep exploring. Pilling is only one part of keeping cashmere at its best — pair this with our guide to washing a cashmere sweater for the drying and storage steps that slow pilling from the start, and read how to tell if cashmere is real if persistent, wiry bobbles have you questioning a piece. When you are ready for a jumper made to be worn often, browse our undyed, handwoven cashmere knitwear.